Review: Änglamark Organic Dark Chocolate 70%

This review is perhaps one of the nerdier ones I’ve done, though admittedly with a somewhat surprising result. It was made possible as I found the identical chocolate in two different formats. One being a thin tablet á la Lindt’s Excellence series and one in a relatively thick and compact format. So I thought it interesting to do a heads up test of these bars. Änglamark is the organic private label of COOP one Scandinavia’ largest super market chains, and is produced by S. P. A. Leccio in Italy. Since this manufacturer delivers to big supermarket chains it should be available in several countries under various labels, This 70% Dark Chocolate bar is Organic and Fairtrade certified. Both bars weigh a 100g and contain the same five ingredients namely, cocoa mass, cane sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin (E 322) and vanilla extract.

A priori I did expect most marked differences, if any, in the texture department, but did not think that the difference in format should affect the flavour. I was in for a small surprise.

While these are supposedly identical chocolates there are differences in terms of presentation and appearance. I, for one, like the more compact box and prefer the look of the smaller and thicker pieces as I do not find the cocoa bean engraving to be very handsome. These cosmetic issues aside I like the colour and surface of the flat bar a lot better as I think the smoother surface is more attractive even if there is no great difference, if any, in the nuance of the colour itself. I would score this as a tie. Both bars have a nice dark colour shine to them. Appearance: 8 out of 10.

I was not able to detect any great difference in aroma. Both smell of dark full bodied chocolate with only a hint of sweetness. Also, there is only a slight hint of fruit and no acidity. There is a little rubber which is not entirely pleasant. Aroma: 7 out of 10.

Both bars have good powerful snap. I think the thinner bar has a better snap when breaking of a piece by hand as the break is quite clean whereas the thicker bar has a somewhat harder snap to it. The thicker bar is tougher and one has to chew a bit more for it too melt, making the melt of the thinner bar slightly superior, though both have good melt. I find that both melt and snap in mouth feel was better in the thinner bar, so I think that texture wise the chocolate gains by being dosed in thinner portions. I would rate the flat bar’s texture as 8, 5 and score the thick as 8.

And now to what its all about: flavour. The compact bar had initially a nice sweet and not too bitter taste, followed by a little fruit though it lacks acidity. The finish is a little bitter.

I am most surprised to report that I found the compact bar to be significantly better tasting than the thin bar. While they did mostly have the same profile (sweet beginning, fruit in the middle and bitter aftertaste) the difference was easily discernable. Notably the sweetness of the beginning and the fruit in the middle was much more pronounced with the compact bar. The thin bar lacked much of the complexity of the compact bar and was somewhat bland in comparison. I would probably rate the thick bar as 8 and the thin bar as or 7, 5. If this is indeed the identical chocolate I cannot explain the difference in flavour, but would have to venture the guess that it has to do with the thin bar releasing the flavours too quickly leaving less time for the palate to “play” with the flavours. Perhaps this is an even bigger problem for the thin bar as the very slight fruit and complexity present in the chocolate dissolves too quickly due to its thinner texture.

These bars OK but definitely have room for improvement and overall would probably lie in the 7, 5 – 8 out of 10 range.

Review: Marabou Dark Chocolate

Before digging into the first review of the week, here is a sneak peak of what to expect this week. Thursday will feature a test of an organic dark chocolate in two different formats namely a thick vs. a thin, not only to review the chocolate itself, but to examine how difference in shape might influence the chocolate experience. That should be pretty interesting, so be sure to check in Thursday for that review. Sunday will probably be devoted to a review of the Ritter Sport Dark Whole Hazelnuts, to complete my coverage of the top three worldwide Ritter flavours according to Jims's Chocolate Mission. The list, by the way, is topped by the Milk Whole Hazelnuts which I reviewed here and third place finisher White Whole Hazelnuts which I reviewed here.

But on to today’s the review…

This Marabou “Dark” chocolate contains, according to the declaration, 44% chocolate and skimmed milk powder, but only the English description on the back describes it as a “Milk chocolate”, whereas the Scandinavian languages all state that this is a dark chocolate. The front of the wrapper states that it is a dark chocolate in Swedish and the images convey the message that this is a dark chocolate. I consider it somewhat misleading to give the impression that a chocolate containing skimmed milk powder and a 44% minimum cocoa is a dark chocolate (even if it adheres to national and/or European regulations).

Perhaps the intended target group is children or grown ups (or both) who prefer a dark chocolate experience that is not too dark. However, I would consider it preferable, to grab a good quality high cocoa content milk chocolate instead of having dark chocolate simply because it is dark (you are able to get good milk chocolate with cocoa percentages in the 40s these days). Alternatively, it is possible to get decent dark chocolate which is not too full bodied with cocoa percentages in the mid 50s that children are quite happy to munch into. Thus, if Marabou with this bar, is catering to one or both of the above mentioned target groups, they might consider doing things a little differently

The chocolate itself looks decent even if it could be a bit shinier. The wrapper looks OK but as before I do not think it accurately conveys what type of product this is. Both the depiction of dark chocolate and the words “Mörk choklad” (Dark chocolate) mislead. Thus, the wrapper does not fulfil its basic function of giving a good idea of the product. Hence, the low score: Appearance: 5 out of 10.

The aroma is uncomplex, but dark with notes of rubber and tobacco. It is surprisingly “dark” in its aroma and not sweet, for a 44% minimum cocoa offering. However, the rubber and tobacco are very unpleasant: Aroma: 6, 5 out of 10.

The chocolate has good snap, both when breaking off a piece and when actually biting into it. However, the chocolate has a somewhat crumbly in the mouth feel when melting, which detracts from the overall texture. Texture: 7 out of 10.

This is as might be expected for 44% chocolate very sweet, though to my mind it is way too sweet for a dark chocolate. It has an artificial tasting bitter aftertaste and no complexity of flavour. Flavour: 6 out of 10.

Average: 6, 125

Review: Nestlé KitKat Chunky

This review of the KitKat Chunky wraps up this week’s exclusive KitKat reviews. While I don’t have all reviews in place for next week, I can reveal that it will feature a test case examining the same chocolate in two formats: one in a thin bar versus a thicker bar. It should be interesting to see how, if at all, flavour, texture and/or consistency are affected by changing this one parameter. So be sure to check in Tuesday to see what’s cooking.

As opposed to other KitKat Bars, such as the dark and regular, the “chunky” comes as a single giant wafer covered with milk chocolate, rather than four fingers of the above mentioned varieties thus making it more compact. And I for one consider the chunky style superior to the regular KitKat.

I consider the colour only slightly better than the KitKat regular. I am not sure whether this is because the chocolate covering is somewhat thicker or due to a different type of chocolate. Appearance: 6 out of 10.

The aroma of this one much stronger, than the regular KitKat and smells of milk chocolate, bread and butter, the butter aroma not being entirely pleasant. Aroma: 7 out of 10.

The texture of this bar is, in my opinion, superior to both the regular and dark Kit Kats I reviewed earlier this week. The chocolate covering seems thicker and the wafer is crispier as well. And these factors definitely improve the melt and mouth feel. Texture: 7, 5 out of 10.

Flavour wise this proposition is very much similar to the regular KitKat even if the proportions are somewhat different. The flavours as with the regular KitKat are that of bread (wafer) with a little salt, and sweetness and with the same lack of characteristic flavour and vanilla. Flavour: 6, 5 out of 10.

Overall I think this bar works slightly better mostly due to its chunky character.

Average: 6, 75 out of 10.

Review: KitKat Dark, Nestlé

As promised here is the second review in a week devoted entirely the Kit Kat reviews. If you haven't followed this blog Monday's blog post reviewed the regular Kit Kat here. This post will deal with the dark KitKat offering and Sunday's review will be off the chunky KitKat. So be sure to check up this week's last KitKat review Sunday.

Dark chocolate has – whether justified or not - a better reputation than its milk and white counterparts. And manufacturers are producing a number of items in their range in dark chocolate version and this is also the case with the KitKat Dark described as “Dark chocolate covered wafer fingers”. In fact Nestlé also produces a 70% chocolate KitKat, not to be confused with this one, which is lighter, containing 52% min. cocoa solids in the chocolate.

As such it does qualify as dark chocolate, which is commonly understood to contain 50% min. cocoa solids (and no addition of dairy products), in contrast to a different version of this bar which reportedly contains (or contained) only 40% cocoa solids.

At any rate I find the wrapper to be a bit more stylish than the milk chocolate variety. Certainly the wrapper signals that this is a dark chocolate which fulfils its function in indicating what kind of bar this is. This is good, at least if you think that this is indeed is a dark and is chocolate. More importantly the chocolate itself looks much nicer than the milk variety and is brown and shiny. Appearance: 7, 5 out of 10.

However, I find the fragrance of this one to be much inferior to the regular KitKat. The dark chocolate smells sweet but with unpleasant smoke, which is quite dominating. Aroma: 6 out of 10.

Texture wise this offering is quite similar to the regular KitKat. The chocolate has a nice melt, even though the wafer could be a little crispier, though it certainly is not dull which is a pitfall of many a wafer based bar. Texture: 7 out of 10.

Flavour wise the wafer appeared to be much the same as the milk variety. At any rate I was not able to taste any significant difference. However, I found the dark chocolate musty, old with a very unpleasant bitter off taste which ruins this offering altogether. For the record the bar was not too old and it did not show any signs of incorrect storage conditions, such as dull wafer or white specks on the chocolate, which is sometimes the case. Flavour: 5 out of 10.

Average: 6, 375

Review: Nestlé KitKat

This is the first of three successive KitKat reviews this week. So be sure to check in on Thursday and Sunday for the other two. I will kick of this week’s review with the KitKat regular which will serve as the benchmark for the KitKat Chunky and KitKat Dark Chocolate reviews.

The KitKat is described as a milk chocolate coated wafer. There are not indications of the percentage of cocoa solids. Appearance wise I think the wrapper is a bit kitchy. When unwrapped, four chocolate “fingers” are revealed. The colour is light brown, albeit a peculiar one which I’ve never seen in chocolate before. Appearance: 6 out of 10.

The bar has no strong or characteristic scent, though there is a sweet scent of milk chocolate. Aroma: 6 out of 10.

The crunch from the wrapper could be crispier, though it is definitely not dull. The melt is fairly decent. Texture: 7 out of 10.

The flavours of this KitKat are that of bread (wafer) with a little salt, and sweetness. Otherwise this bar has no characteristic flavour and I think it does lack a little in the vanilla department. Aroma: 6, 5 out of 10.


Average: 6, 375

Review Lindt Swiss Thins

Being extremely busy at my day job I apologize for missing Thursday’s review. I hope this review will make it up to all of you who visited in vain.

Starting out with the facts, these Lindt Swiss Thins, contain 52% chocolate (min.) and come in box of 200g containing 80(!) making each thin weighing in at approximately 2, 5. There are eight compartments each containing 10 thins. The chocolate contain only the five basic ingredients of a quality chocolate namely cocoa mass and butter, sugar, emulsifier and vanilla.

The Thins come in a very elegant box, and the chocolate thins are also elegant looking, with Lindt in the signature font being written on them The colour is a nice if somewhat light brown. Appearance: 8 out of 10.

The aroma is nice with sweet cocoa and notes of smoke and - as with the Lindt Excellence 70% I reviewed here – a little rubber. Fortunately, the rubber is, in comparison, toned much down, though it still, in my opinion detracts from the aroma. Aroma: 7, 5 out of 10.

The Thins have an excellent almost brittle snap, due to their thinness and a nice melt. Texture: 8, 5 out of 10

Whereas the thinness is good for texture and mouth feel, I think it less good for flavour as it is hard to taste much in such a thin and only 2, 5g piece. Particularly considering that this is a 52% chocolate “only”. Thus I found myself having to take two thins in order to appreciate the flavour properly, which I guess is not the desired effect of an elegant offering box like this. The Thins are much less sweet than I would have expected from a 52% chocolate. They do taste of cocoa but there is no fruit, acidity or complexity in the flavour. It does, however, have a very unpleasant bitter and smoky aftertaste. Flavour: 6, 5 out of 10.

The format of 80 2, 5g thins has its own challenges as pertains flavour. Another challenge is that of having 10 thins on top of each other in each compartment. The effect is that quite a few of the thins are stuck together as they are not separated with paper or a individually packed such as The After Eight Thins are – and probably for this same reason. I think Lindt should consider a solution to this problem as individual pieces sticking together may cause the chocolates to go mouldy.

Average: 7, 625 out of 10

Review: Snickers (Mars)

The (pea)nuts, caramel and chocolate is a classic trio which is offered by many manufacturers, such as the Lion bar with peanuts, I reviewed earlier. Perhaps the most famous is Snickers form Mars. A variation on this theme is also done by Ritter Sport which I reviewed here. I think it is hard to find a really bad bar with this trio and I would certainly be hard pressed to name one, even if the quality can vary widely. In other words it is the sort of bar that most manufacturers do reasonably well.

With this in mind I was excited to revisit the Snickers bar from Mars, which I haven’t had for a long time. Snickers is described as a “Milk chocolate with soft nougat (14%) and caramel centre (27%) with fresh roasted peanuts”

I do not think the wrapper is particularly pretty and the image does not, in my view, do justice to the bar. The peanuts on the wrapper, however, do give a good idea of what is offered. The shape is that of a standard bar in this category. The milk chocolate has a somewhat darker colour than expected for a milk chocolate. Cross section view is OK, though no peanuts are visible. Appearance: 6, 5 out of 10.

The bar has a powerful aroma of roasted peanuts which is nice, though there is a clear burnt tone which is rather unpleasant. Neither chocolate covering (which is quite generous) nor caramel is discernible through the powerful aroma of roasted peanuts, which is very disappointing. Aroma: 6, 5 out of 10.

If the aroma let down, the texture of the bar certainly made up for it. Roasted peanuts provide good texture which is nicely complemented by soft and chewy caramel, also nice melt. Also, the melt is good, if a little slow. Texture: 8 out of 10.

The flavour is mild and sweet the caramel and peanuts coming clearly through. The chocolate, however, is not very distinct and this is really too bad. Here I think is a good opportunity for improvement. With the chocolate flavour so absent I cannot give this more than 6, 5 for flavour. Also, I was not able to taste any nougat (or hazelnuts for that matter – but perhaps it is “peanut nougat”?), which is otherwise quite powerful. Despite these shortcomings, one can readily appreciate that this bar is popular for what it does well, namely the mild and sweet flavour and soft chewy caramel.

Average: 6, 875 out of 10

Review: Ritter Sport White with Whole Hazelnuts

According, to Ritter, over at Jim’s Chocolate Mission, this offering is the third most selling in the Ritter range, worldwide. This was a surprise to me considering that many are not particularly fond of white chocolate. However, being a fan of both white chocolate and whole roasted nuts, I was quite excited to try this offering. The thing about white chocolate, however, is that it can easily become too waxy and sickening, not only due to its (naturally) higher fat and sugar contents, but also because manufacturers often add foreign fats. It is in other words white chocolate is a delicate balance, which is not so easy to pull off.

As with the Milk with whole hazelnuts form the Ritter range I am not too fond of the ”photo” wrapper, but it does give a good idea of what the contents is like. I also think the presentation loses a bit from the fact that hazelnuts are coming through and white chocolate appears somewhat waxy instead of clean and shiny. Appearance: 7 out of 10.

The aroma is nice of sweet white chocolate and roasted hazelnuts, though I cannot detect much in way of vanilla. Aroma: 8 out of 10.

Both rice crispies, added for extra crunch, and the whole hazelnuts provide good texture. However, perhaps the whopping 23% of roasted hazelnuts is too much as the chocolate becomes very fragmented when biting into which, by way of mouth feel, is less than ideal. While the chocolate itself has a good melt, if a bit waxy, the whole nuts and rice crispies detract from in that they provide an uneven breakdown and mouth feel, though perhaps this is a minor point. Texture: 7 out of 10.

Turning to flavour I was struck by two things. First the chocolate is not too sweet, which is good. Second it does not have much characteristic of white chocolate, which leaves the white chocolate lover in me unsatisfied. I would also like to see a more distinct flavour, although I should add that the chocolate, as such, is not bad tasting. Flavour: 7 out of 10.

Average: 7, 25 out of 10.

Review: Fazer Dumle

Dumle, from Finnish Fazer, offers a timeless combination of caramel toffee covered with milk chocolate. Promising a mild and sweet experience this offering should have a broad appeal that should offend no one.

The first thing I noted is that the appearance is signalling a laid back, childish thing. And while this one may be intended for kids I think that it does not clearly signal what kind of candy this is. So even if grown ups might like these toffees they a) get no clear indication of what it is and b) might be put of by the childish appearance. Appearance: 7 out of 10.

The aroma is dominated by an artificial smelling essence of some sort which I found quite unpleasant and overpowering making it hard to identify more than hints of toffee and chocolate. Aroma: 5 out of 10.

Initially this toffee has a nice soft texture. But as the outer layer of chocolate melts away it becomes a cross between toffee and chewing gum. I did not like the chewing gum consistency and I don’t think a caramel toffee like this one should “end” in this manner. I think the texture could be much improved if it simply ended in a soft chewy consistency. Texture: 6 out of 10.

Taste wise I think the artificial aroma is much too overpowering, though the toffee has good sweetness. Otherwise I think that there is not much character in the flavour. While I realize that an offering such as this one in all probability aims to be sweet and mild I think a good opportunity for improvement would be to cut back on the aroma and put a little more love and care into the making of this toffee. Aroma: 7 out of 10.

Despite the above I have no doubt that this should be popular with kids and grown ups who like mild and sweet toffees.

Average 6, 25 out of 10.

Review: STORCK Toffifee

Toffifee is described as “A Hazelnut (10%) in caramel (41%) with creamy nougat (37%) and chocolate (12%)”. Such a combination is rich and full of potential provided enough love and care goes in the making. Unfortunately I do not think this is the case with this offering from German confectionary manufacturer, STORCK.

This particular packet came with 15 pieces (125g) which seems well proportioned in size. The appearance of the box seemed to convey the idea of the offering well, neither over- nor underselling it. The Toffifees themselves look OK if a little on the dull side and could use a little decoration or at any rate something that might liven them up a little. Perhaps some chopped hazelnuts, on top, for example, might look nice. Cross section view reveals nice look. Appearance: 7, 5 out of 10.

There is a strong aroma of hazelnuts, buttery caramel with notes of coffee. However, there is very little in terms of chocolate which is rather disappointing. Aroma: 7 out of 10.

The Toffifees mostly have a soft chewy texture, which is a little too soft in my opinion. The only crunch to break this soft, chewy texture comes from the hazelnut. Unfortunately this single (?) hazelnut a piece is not quite enough crunch. A good opportunity for improvement, I think, would be to add more nuts (or crunch). On the plus side the Toffifees have a nice melt. Texture: 6 out of 10.

Flavour wise the Toffifees deliver the taste of hazelnuts and toffee, though neither toffee nor hazelnuts flavour is very intense, which makes this a less satisfying experience than what might be expected from such a rich combination. Also disappointing is the lack of any distinctive chocolate flavour. While this offering certainly is not an unpleasant, the lack of intensity in flavour makes it a little dull. Flavour: 7 out of 10.

Average: 6, 875 out of 10.

Review: Milka Alpine Milk Chocolate

Several brands, besides Milka, have an Alpine milk offering. From holidays in Italy I know that products made with ingredients from the Alps are considered to be of particularly good quality. Thus Alpine Bressaola (dried beef) is at least twice as expensive as the ordinary variety. When it comes to chocolate, however, I have my doubts how many consumers are actually able to taste the difference. I certainly was not able to detect any particular “Alpine” flavour. I presume, therefore that products such as this one, is created due to consumer (or marketing) demand. In Denmark, however, Milka is not so easy to come by (perhaps for strategic reasons of the producer, Kraft). And for some reason the Ritter Sport Alpine milk is not carried by the supermarkets chains. And while I was able to locate the Ritter Sport Alpine in a local grocery shop it was not stored under such bad conditions that it would be unfair to review it. The Milka Alpine milk, however, which I also found this 100g bar in a local grocery shop (probably parallel import), was in good enough condition to review.

Presentation wise the purple wrapper and cow seems a little “childish” though perhaps this is the intended target group. The chocolate itself has a very light brown colour and is divided into squares with “Milka” imprinted. Appearance: 6, 5 out of 10.

When unwrapped I was met with a very sweet and buttery fragrance of dairy chocolate which, in my opinion, was much too sweet and buttery. I was not able detect any significant aroma of hazelnuts (declaration stated that hazelnut paste was used in the making of this bar). Aroma: 6, 5 out of 10.

Snap is actually a nice one, considering that this is a milk chocolate. On the other hand the melt could be better considering that this is a milk chocolate. Perhaps the added butterfat made the texture somewhat too waxy. Texture: 7 out of 10.

The flavour is very sweet and I was not able to note any special “Alpine” flavour profile. There is a bit of cocoa in the flavour profile and not much else in the flavour, not even hazelnuts and I’m at a loss to explain their presence in this offering. The sweetness simply overpowers everything. This confirms the suspicion that this bar is intended mostly for children, though this is nowhere stated. Flavour: 6, 5.

Average: 6, 75

Review: Bounty

Bounty is the chocofication of coconut enrobed in chocolate. To me – and I suspect to many consumers - the idea of coconut and chocolate is an enticing one. It is therefore surprising that only a few brands have such an offering in their range. Also, some of the manufacturers that did try their hands with this combination have not been hit by immediate success. Ritter Sport, for example, created a “cocos” bar, which did not sell well and was therefore discontinued. However, fans have requested it be brought back.

This classic offering from Mars, is coconut filling (dried coconut accounts for 21%) covered with milk chocolate (at least 25% cocoa solids). Presentation wise the blue/white wrapper looks OK and the light brown colour of the chocolate itself is decent, without being spectacular. The saving grace, however, is the cross section view, which is very nice with hite filling between milk chocolate. Appearance: 7 out of 10.

Surprisingly there is not much coconut fragrance when the bar is still unbroken. The aromas are those of coca and milk chocolate with no particular nice smell to it. When broken into the coconut comes somewhat better through. Aroma: 7 out of 10.

The bar has a nice texture in the form of good soft melt from both filling and chocolate. However, the chocolate feels waxy in the mouth which somewhat ruins the otherwise nice texture. Texture: 7 out of 10.

The chocolate is very sweet and appears to be of low quality and lacks chocolaty intensity, even when taking the genre into account. The coconut filling too lacks intensity and, at least to my liking, should have had a more intense coconut flavour. Flavour: 7 out of 10.

Despite the low scores, this bar is larger than the sum of its parts, as the proposition is nice. Mars has an excellent opportunity for improvement making this bar even better.

Average: 7 out of 10.

Review: Marabou Daim

The Marabou Daim bar is milk chocolate studded with bits of Daim for extra crunch. Daim is a crispy milk chocolate covered croquante bar that I have reviewed here. For Daim lovers this offering will probably hit the spot perfectly. Even for those less fond of Daim (as non-Scandinavians appear to be) but do like Marabou this offering will probably still be exciting as the Daim is much less dominating, adds good crunch as well as caramel flavour.

From a technical perspective this bar works much better than the Marabou non-stop on several levels (aesthetic, improved crunch and flavour) and I think therefore – with my Scandinavian bias – will appeal to a much larger group of chocolate lovers. In fact I would venture the guess that this is probably one of Marabou’s the top selling products in this line. At least I find this one the best I have tasted so far from Marabou.

The wrapper is too bombastic to my taste, though the chocolate looks OK. As with the other Marabou milk chocolates this one is not shiny. Appearance: 7, 5 out of 0.

The aroma is dominated by Daim (croquante/caramel) with added aromas of milk chocolate. Still, the aroma is somewhat artificial. Aroma 7, 5 out of 10

The texture of this one is a big improvement not only to the Daim bar, but also to such filled chocolate as the Marabou Nonstop, which I reviewed earlier here. The Daim provides good crunch, but still sticks to the teeth when the toffee turns chewy. The melt could have been better considering that this is a milk chocolate. Texture: 7, 5 out of 10

On the plus side, the flavour resulting from the combination of Daim with Marabou milk chocolate is much superior to the Daim stand alone. All things, however, are not dandy. There are hints of smoke or “burnt” caramel. Chocolate is very sweet and artificial tasting with no distinctive chocolate flavour. Using better quality chocolate this could indeed become very successful. Even as is I think many will love this bar and I have no doubts that is one of the top selling products in this series that many a consumer will buy again and again. Flavour: 7, 5 out of 10.

Average: 7, 5 out of 10.